August 8th 2004
The surf
on Saturday down South was reported as being good by most of the folks who
were down there...3-4 foot and glassy.
Today the surf was a lot bigger with a bitterly cold north-westerly wind making
the decision to go out a hard one. Most of the blokes/sheilas who work during
the week found the choice easy, as there was a decent sized wave for once
on the weekend.
We arrived later than usual and although the size appealed to me I was reluctant
to go out, because of the influenza I've had for the last 3 weeks. I thought
once the sun came through the early morning cloud cover I might take a chance
and go out. It wasn't until one of the locals, Findley "Jock" Gordon
came in after his session and said it wasn't worth it I decided to be a spectator.
And as a spectator there was plenty of action going on, as you can see from
the attached pics...
For the life of me, when I'm surfing I try to make my sessions as easy as
possible for my aging body. Like paddling out from the bay and not the point
on big days to conserve as much energy as possible once I'm out the back.
It truely amazes me when I see people going off the point on days like this,
and as I said to the girl, "the smartest bloke that's been here all day
is "Fluro", who said I'm going home to a warm house and the family".
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Copyright:- Ron &
Sibylle Taylor